"Can we remove this wall?" question to a contractor is the equivalent of "What are the specials?" when you're out for a nice dinner. It's the question everyone, without fail, asks.

So here's the short answer: Yes.

Yes. Any wall can be removed.

Yes, even if it's weight-bearing (bearing the weight of the structure above it).

Yes. You could convert your 1600-square-foot ranch into an open floor-plan studio without walls.

Although any wall can be removed, the ease of it (read: cost) ranges from simple demo and drywall patching (for a non-load-bearing wall) to installing a steel I-Beam and reengineering the structural loads in your home.

But here's the thing: we've never had anyone regret removing a wall. Removing a wall can bring in more natural light, connect your living and kitchen spaces (and thus give you TV access while cooking dinner…just saying), and improve your home's resale value. If budget permits, it's simply a no-brainer.

So, the real question isn't "Can we remove this wall?" but "How much will it cost to remove this wall?" Below are the types of wall removals moving from least to most complex (and costly).

Option 1: cased opening

If you don't want the full-on wall removal option, a cased opening is economical and will achieve the goal of light and openness. A cased opening is essentially an extra-wide (in some cases more than 10 feet) doorway. It allows you to create new spaces without pardoning the pun, walling everything off and requires minimal structural adjustments.

Several large cased openings were added to increase light and flow to several rooms.

Option 2: Wall removal with a header (load-bearing wall)

A less expensive option than removing the entire wall is leaving a header. The header is the supporting beam running across the ceiling, where the wall is then braced on the sides. The header (along with the case opening option) gives you certain decorative advantages that complete wall removal doesn't. It allows you to accent the different spaces while maintaining the open feel you seek.

The header is left and posts are incorporated for both aesthetic and structural purposes

Option 3: Non-load-bearing wall complete removal

This removes the non-load-bearing entire wall - like it never existed. Once removed, there will be no header, no trim, and all the flooring and sheetrock will be tied in seamlessly. You can expect to spend a couple of thousand dollars in the ballpark as a starting point for a no-frills, no-complications wall removal. This is for a non-load-bearing wall with nothing inside (more on that in a moment). It would remove the wall to make it look like it was never there.

~~~

Quick aside: How do you know whether a wall is load-bearing?

Great question. If you live in a single-story home, it's a straightforward answer. Whatever walls are running perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) to your roof rafters, that's a load-bearing wall. For example, if you live in a 1960s ranch, the load-bearing walls are the exterior walls and any wall running the length of the home side to side.

Once you move into two-story homes, it's a bit more tricky. The second-story floor joist (support structure underneath the floor) often runs in different directions, meaning the 90-degree rule doesn't necessarily apply. At that point, you'll need to trust your contractor's advice.

~~~

Option 4: Load-bearing wall

Removing a load-bearing wall will be more expensive as it is far more labor-intensive. While the non-load bearing wall is just demo and patch, this type of wall needs the demo, installing temporary braces, and installing beams in your attic (or floor system, if you have a multi-story home) to transfer the load of what the wall was holding up to either the exterior of the house or onto another load-bearing wall. Depending on the span needed to clear the distance, there are engineering guidelines for the thickness of the beam (or, in some cases, steel I-Beam), which will need to be installed in your attic or floor system space. Your contractor will consult with an engineer to confirm the required beam type and receive an engineer's letter (also added cost). You may also need structural piers in the crawlspace to carry the load down low.

When it comes to the cost of this type of wall removal, whereas you may spend a couple of thousand dollars to remove a load-bearing wall, you can easily spend that on materials (steel, custom structural beams, floor jacks) for this type of wall, with the cost quickly going past 10K.

Hidden costs: what's inside the walls.

Most walls aren't just hollow walls. They have electrical wires, outlets, switches, plumbing, and HVAC running through them. Removing a wall means rerouting all the guts of the wall, which, of course, is an added cost.

Other cost considerations: what's on either side of the wall.

The goal of removing a wall is for it to look like it was never there. That means that removing a wall is essentially a multi-space remodel. Flooring needs to be run (and refinished, in the case of hardwoods), trim needs to be tied in, and all impacted spaces need to be painted. Depending on complexity, this can cost more than the removal of the wall itself.

In conclusion:

Any wall can be removed.
In our experience, it is always worth it if the budget permits.
Complete wall removals start in the couple thousand dollar range, and can go into the multiples 10's of thousands due to complexity and components inside the wall and in the adjacent spaces
If you prefer not to remove the wall altogether, you have tiered options (cased opening, headers) that will still open up your space.ner. It’s the question everyone, without fail, asks.